Features of the 2017 vintage

Boscarelli rated 2017 excellent despite extreme conditions. National wine production fell to its lowest level in seventy years, while individual Montepulciano parcels lost 30–45% compared with 2016. Only 280 mm of rain fell between October 2016 and March 2017, against a normal 400 mm. January was cooler than average, while February and March were warmer.

Following an early spring, a cold northern air mass struck from 19 to 21 April. Unlike a normal valley-floor radiation frost, this advective frost combined subzero temperatures with wind and caused widespread damage from the valleys into advanced hillside vineyards. Shoots measuring 5–40 cm were partially or entirely destroyed; approximately 20% of Montepulciano’s vineyards were affected. The rest of spring remained warm and dry, with June especially hot. July was normally hot and sunny. A further heatwave sent daytime temperatures to 35–40°C during early August and 30–35°C later in the month. September then turned cooler and brought five or six valuable rain events.

Budbreak ran from 26 March to 7 April. Growth resumed slowly after the frost because of both thermal shock and low soil-water reserves. Flowering occurred without interruption from 22 to 31 May. Shoots grew slowly through June and July, stopped early in mid-July and began lignifying as véraison started. Colour change extended from 18 July to 14 August because drought and hot air increased stress and evapotranspiration. Some vineyards suffered leaf loss and berry dehydration. International varieties were affected more severely than Sangiovese and the other indigenous grapes, which displayed stronger adaptation to the local pedoclimate.

September rain restored vine water status and allowed surviving grapes to complete ripening. Drought had produced weak shoots, short internodes, small leaves, small bunches and exceptionally small berries. Renewed water uptake increased berry weight and diluted accumulated sugar, so sugar levels remained moderate rather than reaching those typical of a hot year. Most grapes were harvested during September.

The small berries had a high skin-to-pulp ratio, medium to medium-high sugar, medium-low acidity and good phenolic maturity. The resulting wines combined very intense colour, balanced alcohol and acidity, complexity and substantial tannic structure, with ripe-fruit and spice notes typical of Sangiovese in a hot season. Quantity was small, but quality ranged from good to excellent.