From the vineyards of Hambledon

The visit begins among Hambledon’s gently rising, numbered plots in late May 2021. Cold and frost had delayed growth, and a recent hailstorm struck before the buds had fully opened. Sam Phillips introduced the Pinot Meunier vineyard and explained the roles of the estate’s three varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and resilient, structurally important Pinot Meunier.

The account traces Hambledon to Sir Guy Salisbury-Jones and the assistance of his friends at Pol Roger. It also records Ian Kellett’s 2005 meeting with Hubert de Billy, which renewed the relationship with the Champagne house. The connection extends to geology and technique: Hambledon’s 65-million-year-old Newhaven Chalk resembles that of the Côte des Blancs and functions both as a water reservoir and a natural drainage system.

Part-time winemaker Tobias Tullberg outlined the cellar calendar. Malolactic fermentation occupies winter and continues into early spring; the wine then settles, is racked from its lees and enters tasting approximately two weeks later, normally after Easter. Blending and bottling take place in late spring and early summer.

All grapes from Hambledon and Hinton were hand-picked and made into juice within four hours. A gravity press provided gentle extraction with limited tannin: grapes entered from the upper level, juice passed down through the system and was collected below for stainless-steel fermentation.

Felix Gabillet described an international career encompassing 15 vintages, including five at Hambledon, and work in Australia, New Zealand, Canada, California and Champagne. He chose England for the opportunity to contribute at the beginning of a developing wine industry. The visit concluded with four cuvées representing Hambledon’s white and rosé sparkling range.