Mas La Plana at 50: 6 vintages retrace its history in London

From an experiment to international recognition

At Pavyllon in London’s Mayfair, Familia Torres president Miguel Torres Maczassek presented a 6-vintage retrospective marking 50 years of Mas La Plana. The selection extended from 1971 to 2020. In 1979, 3 years after the Judgment of Paris, the debut vintage defeated celebrated Bordeaux châteaux at the Gault & Millau Wine Olympics in Paris, raising the international standing of Spanish wine.¹

Maczassek represents the family’s 5th generation in the business. In the late 1960s, his father went against his own father’s wishes and experimented with Cabernet Sauvignon plants brought clandestinely from France. Cabernet trials were widespread at the time, while the wines later known as Super Tuscans were beginning to establish themselves.¹

The vineyard and regenerative farming

Mas La Plana lies in Penedès near Barcelona, a region also associated with Cava. Its 29 hectares comprise 11 parcels across 2 levels. The lower ground has deep, well-drained alluvial soils rich in sand, clay and gravel; marlstone appears higher up. The Mediterranean microclimate brings hot summers and cool winters, while the soils are low in organic matter and range from dark yellow to brown.¹

Many vines planted during the 1960s remain productive, and only a few are replaced at a time to retain the vineyard’s age and character. Maczassek described regenerative farming and action on the climate emergency as leading priorities and a personal passion. He also criticized excessively frequent or deep tillage and the use of imposing machinery as a measure of success.¹

The report describes an initial decline after invasive cultivation stops and regenerative viticulture begins, followed by environmental recovery. It says falcons and other wildlife now abound at Mas La Plana and that people from the nearby town visit to listen to the rural soundscape.¹

The younger vintages

Mas La Plana 2020 DO Penedès, at 14.5% ABV and about £55 retail, was described as powerful yet already elegant. Its profile combined a distinctive perfume and marked intensity with dark berries, tobacco and tannins that were not excessively drying. The tasting report judged its components already established and suggested another 10 or 15 years in the cellar.¹

Mas La Plana 2016 DO Penedès, at 14.5% ABV and £58 retail, remained fresh and lively, with young blackcurrant and redcurrant fruit. Compared with 2020, it showed a different aroma and greater complexity, alongside a very deep ruby colour, dark fruit and liquorice.¹

The 2000 and 1996 vintages

The older bottles are now difficult to find through retailers. Mas La Plana 2000 DO Penedès, at 14% ABV, came from a drier year. Liquorice appeared again, joined by cigar-box and spicy notes; the flavours were integrated, the wine had greater concentration and its alcohol was carried without imbalance.¹

Mas La Plana 1996 DO Penedès, at 13.5% ABV, came from a late-ripening vintage. It had lower alcohol, drier tannins and less intensity, with prune and a restrained wood note. The report regarded it as perhaps the most complete wine in the selection, while Maczassek called 1996 a great vintage for Familia Torres.¹

The original label and the 1989 wine

Maczassek said he had wanted to name the wine Mas La Plana after the vineyard, but his father opposed putting the family vineyard’s name on a Cabernet. During its early years it was therefore sold as Gran Coronas Etiqueta Negra, or Gran Coronas Black Label, with Mas La Plana printed less prominently farther down the label.¹

Gran Coronas Mas La Plana 1989 DO Penedès, at 12.5% ABV, came from a year with a rainy spring followed by a dry summer. Its tasting profile featured leather, tobacco and dried fruit.¹

The 1971 Black Label and the surviving cellar stock

The historic vintages survive only in highly limited quantities and might have disappeared altogether. The Torres family had been steadily consuming its cellar holdings of classic years until someone focused on their future commercial value stopped the depletion of the stock.¹

The final sample was Gran Coronas (Mas La Plana) “Black Label” 1971, at 12.5% ABV. Unlike the later pure Cabernet Sauvignon wines, it included 20% Tempranillo and 10% Cabernet Franc. Its colour was no longer the nearly opaque ruby of the younger vintages, and the label carried the now-dated word “dry.” The report said the wine remained sound, with an attractive perfume, dried-flower notes and balanced acidity through the finish.¹

Christmas offer and UK distribution

The report said 50 customers would have the chance that Christmas to buy a box of selected historic vintages. Maczassek said wines aged to that point could carry a beautiful message from the past.¹

Mas La Plana is distributed in the UK by Fells. The Buyer disclosed that Fells is its commercial partner.¹