Valpolicella Superiore, a contemporary interpretation of the territory

Stefano Cesari considers how the international growth of Amarone and Ripasso altered the position of Valpolicella DOC. Between 2001 and 2019, the regional area associated with Amarone rose from 5,400 to almost 8,300 hectares and production from 7 million to 17 million bottles, while Ripasso reached 30 million bottles. In 2019, the Consorzio della Valpolicella responded by suspending new plantings for three years, reducing the share of grapes permitted for Amarone and Recioto drying from 65% to 40%, and lowering yields from 120 to 110 quintals per hectare.

Cesari argues that a denomination should express its territory rather than be identified primarily by a production technique. Changing preferences toward subtler, more elegant wines create an opportunity to restore Valpolicella Superiore to a more ambitious position.

Since 2016, Brigaldara has pursued a Valpolicella Superiore project based on fresh grapes, combining structure with drinkability. The work centers on Case Vecie and especially the Mandrie vineyard at about 450 m, with southwesterly exposure. Yield is brought to approximately 2 kg per vine through thinning. Silty-sandy, organic-matter-rich southern soils carry mainly Corvina; poorer, pebbly western soils over tuff favor Corvinone.

The project uses native varieties—55% Corvina, 35% Corvinone and 10% Rondinella in the formulation discussed—with the longer-term idea of focusing on Corvina and Corvinone if appellation rules permit. Corvinone would receive greater emphasis in hot, dry years and Corvina in wetter, colder seasons. The objective is a fresh, ageworthy expression whose tannins, aroma, energy and territorial identity establish Valpolicella Superiore as more than a secondary wine.