Mannucci Droandi

The Valdarno germplasm project

Mannucci Droandi's documented history is closely connected with a long-term program devoted to endangered grapevine germplasm from the Valdarno Superiore. The initiative was developed with the Arezzo section of the Istituto Sperimentale per la Viticoltura and later presented within the framework of the Consiglio per la Ricerca e la Sperimentazione in Agricoltura.

The project responded to the severe contraction of Tuscany's historic ampelographic diversity. Phylloxera initiated the loss of many cultivars around the end of the nineteenth century. Mixed farming still preserved hundreds of varieties into the mid-twentieth century, but the expansion of specialized viticulture during the 1950s and 1960s accelerated their disappearance. The introduction of controlled denominations under Law No. 930 of 1963 and subsequent European rules restricting each province to authorized or recommended cultivars further marginalized minor local grapes and native biotypes.

1995: field surveys begin

Field research began in 1995. Investigators concentrated on marginal areas where old mixed-training systems survived, drawing on both the plant material and the technical and historical knowledge of local growers. Much of the material came from five farms: Azienda Ammannati, Azienda Matassoni and Azienda I Selvatici in Montevarchi; Azienda Bellacci in Terranuova Bracciolini; and Fattoria di Ambra in Bucine.

The first phase recovered 45 varieties and biotypes from small, old plantings considered at imminent risk of disappearance. Each vine was described using the international OIV ampelographic method. The work was supplemented by photography, bibliographic research and interviews with growers.

1997–1998: establishment of the collection

Buds were collected for propagation in winter 1997. In winter 1998, Mannucci Droandi planted the first collection and evaluation vineyard so that the recovered material could be observed under uniform environmental conditions. Twenty vines were planted for every accession. The original planting used SO4 rootstock, spur-pruned cordon training and spacing reported in the early account as 0.85 m within the row and 2.8 m between rows. Its medium-textured soil contained a substantial sandy component.

2000: measurements and experimental vinification

Productive observations began in the vines' third year, the 2000 growing season. Ampelographic, phenological and agronomic observations were combined with must analysis, isoenzyme work and genetic investigation using RAPD markers and microsatellites. These analyses were intended to distinguish synonyms and homonyms, establish whether accessions belonged to known cultivars and identify potentially independent varieties.

The vines were also screened for major viral diseases, including fleck, Arabis mosaic, fanleaf, leafroll and GVA. From the 2000 vintage onward, the most promising accessions underwent standardized microvinification, chemical analysis and sensory evaluation to determine whether they merited propagation and eventual planting in commercial vineyards.

2002: first microvinification results

The initial microvinification results were presented in Arezzo on 2 July 2002. At that time the enterprise was identified as Azienda Agricola Mannucci Droandi di Roberto Giulio Droandi, based in Caposelvi, Mercatale Valdarno.

The program had moved beyond simple preservation: its stated purpose included evaluating the productive potential of recovered cultivars and using them to strengthen the relationship between wine and the Valdarno's historic viticultural identity.

2004–2006: expansion of the collection

A second plot adjacent to the original vineyard was planted in 2004. By the later account, the 1998 plot held 42 accessions—27 black-berried, 12 white-berried and three white table-grape accessions—while the 2004 plot held another 30 accessions, comprising 25 black-berried and five white-berried accessions.

The expanded protocol standardized spacing at 1 m within rows and 2.8 m between rows. Every accession remained represented by 20 vines on SO4 rootstock, trained to spur-pruned cordon and pruned to 10–12 buds per vine. Research continued through morphological, genetic, sanitary, agronomic and oenological assessment, with selected grapes again microvinified in the 2005 vintage.

Mannucci Droandi's documented vineyard work centers on the conservation and evaluation of endangered Valdarno grape germplasm. Plant material was sought in marginal areas and old mixed vineyards, then propagated and established in a common collection site to reduce environmental variation during comparison.

Each accession was represented by 20 vines. Both collection plots used SO4 rootstock and spur-pruned cordon training; the mature protocol specified 1 m between vines, 2.8 m between rows and a load of 10–12 buds per plant.

Assessment included OIV-standard ampelographic descriptions, photography, phenological and agronomic measurements, chemical analysis of must and genetic characterization. RAPD analysis and microsatellite markers were employed to investigate suspected synonyms, homonyms and potentially independent varieties. Sanitary checks covered fleck, Arabis mosaic, fanleaf, leafroll and GVA.

Grapes selected for microvinification were harvested separately at an optimum maturity determined through chemical analysis. This work was intended both to conserve genetic resources and to identify cultivars or biotypes suitable for propagation and possible return to productive vineyards.

Experimental red microvinification

The documented cellar protocol applies specifically to the germplasm research program. Each black-berried accession selected for evaluation was harvested separately at analytically determined maturity, destemmed and crushed. Alcoholic fermentation lasted approximately seven days in 50-litre vessels, with selected yeast and small additions of sulfur dioxide. The wine was then pressed and transferred for natural clarification, followed by two rackings to remove sediment. Chemical analysis preceded bottling in the following spring.

Experimental white microvinification

White grapes were softly pressed and lightly clarified at low temperature with small additions of bentonite and casein. After transfer to fermentation vessels, alcoholic fermentation ran for approximately six days under temperature-controlled conditions in 50-litre containers, using selected yeast and small additions of sulfur dioxide. A post-fermentation racking removed the lees, followed by another racking after any light cold stabilization. The wines were chemically analyzed and bottled the following spring.

The standardized protocols allowed the research team to compare the intrinsic oenological potential of different accessions. Analytical and sensory assessment was used to identify material worthy of further study, propagation or possible commercial reintroduction.