Fiano di Avellino

The ground is layered by volcanoes. Across the broad central band, from Grottolella and Montefredane through Avellino to Forino, Contrada, Cesinali and Aiello del Sabato, ochre volcanic ash and beds of pumice from the Phlegraean eruptions alternate with old buried soils and loose debris, sometimes lying on clays, marly and sandy clays and even gypsum.

The wine must be at least 85 per cent Fiano, with Greco, Coda di Volpe and Trebbiano Toscano allowed in the rest, from vertically trained vineyards cropped at no more than ten tonnes a hectare. Labels may add Apianum, the classical name recalled by Lapio — once Apia, a village of vineyards that made a wine called Apiano, and whose importance in the wine trade is confirmed by a tax on wine granted in 1592. Fiano di Avellino became a DOC in 1978 and a DOCG in 2003.