History
The historical vineyard and winery
Viticulture at Cavanera predates the arrival of phylloxera on Etna. The estate preserves an approximately 2-hectare parcel of own-rooted vines planted during the second half of the nineteenth century. Its oldest trunks have developed concentric circles, coils and twisted arms, and the parcel survives as a record of the cultivation traditions once practised on the volcano. The vineyard is trained in the traditional alberello Etneo form and contains principally Nerello Mascalese together with scattered relic varieties.
The agricultural complex in Contrada Verzella also preserves an old manor house and historic wine-production structures. The surviving palmento contains a wooden pressing system, rock-cut collection vats and drainage channels made from terracotta or hewn directly through basalt. The production building had already been used for vinification during the nineteenth century.
Recovery of the pre-phylloxera heritage
In 2007, the old vineyard was inventoried and placed under a dedicated conservation programme. Replacement vines were propagated from material taken from the ancient plants and maintained on their own roots. The estate also uses the traditional technique of propaggine, or layering, to replace occasional losses while preserving the genetic continuity of the parcel.
The project extends beyond keeping old plants productive. The estate has sought to conserve their germplasm and the vineyard’s historical, cultural and anthropological record. The Consiglio Nazionale delle Ricerche examined the genetic profiles of Nerello Mascalese and the parcel’s sporadic relic varieties, identifying profiles that were at least partly previously unknown.
Restoration and scientific dating
In 2011, the existing buildings at Cavanera underwent conservative restoration as part of Firriato’s recovery of its historic rural structures. The work brought the old Etna winery back into operation while retaining the palmento, stonework and other elements of the agricultural complex. Environmental technologies and materials compatible with the landscape were incorporated to reduce energy use and the building’s environmental impact.
The University of Palermo’s Department of Agricultural and Forest Sciences sampled the wood of old vines in Contrada Verzella, cadastral parcel 287. A certificate dated 7 March 2014 records dendrochronological and stereoscopic examination of the annual rings and estimates the sampled vine at 140 years. Broader investigation of the parcel produced estimated ages of approximately 140–155 years, while the average age is presented elsewhere as exceeding 150 years.
The first pre-phylloxera Riserva
The 2014 harvest became the first vintage of Signum Aetnae Etna DOC Riserva, created from the pre-phylloxera parcel. The inaugural vintage yielded approximately 3,500 bottles. This project joined two other central strands of Cavanera’s development: the Gaudensius traditional-method sparkling-wine programme and the zoning and microvinification work behind the estate’s single-contrada wines.
Environmental programme
In 2013, four hectares of woodland were established on Etna as a contribution toward compensating carbon-dioxide emissions. ISO 14064 certification for greenhouse-gas measurement and reduction followed in 2014 at company level. In 2016 the Cavanera Etnea Resort was covered by certification under the DNV-GL interpretation of the EC EMAS 1221/2009 system; in 2017 the programme was extended to monitoring and improving the environmental performance of the Etna winery as well as the resort. The Etna winery received greenhouse-gas reduction certification under ISO 14064-1 in 2019, the same year Firriato obtained carbon-neutral certification based on quantification, reduction and offsetting of greenhouse-gas emissions.
Organic conversion across Firriato’s vineyards was completed in 2012 with BioAgriCert conformity to EC Regulation 834/2007. The current organic operator certificate, issued under EU Regulation 2018/848, covers organic wine preparation and is valid from 10 November 2025 until 10 November 2028.
Contemporary estate programme
Cavanera now covers 88 hectares in the northern quadrant of Etna, including 84 hectares of vineyards distributed among 12 contrade. The estate winery in Verzella handles the grapes immediately after harvest and contains dedicated facilities for still wines and traditional-method sparkling wines. Zoning, vine and grape selection, microvinification and the conservation of old genetic material remain the principal components of the estate’s Etna project.
Terroir
Position and topography
Cavanera Etnea lies in the municipality of Castiglione di Sicilia on the northern and north-eastern sectors of Mount Etna. Its vineyards occupy wide terraces and the sides of old sciare, or lava fields. The principal centre is in Contrada Verzella on the north-eastern slope; other vineyards extend northward, with exposures across the north, north-east and north-west quadrants. The vineyard elevations are presented as approximately 650–950 metres, creating a genuinely mountain environment within the Mediterranean solar zone.
The volcano dominates the landscape. Looking east from the estate, the view extends toward the Peloritani mountains, the basalt formations of the Alcantara Gorge and Taormina. Black terraced lava fields, broom, hazelnut groves, woodland, dry-stone retaining walls and vineyards form the immediate agricultural setting.
Geological origin and soils
The vineyards root into lava flows deposited over several centuries. Weathering and successive human reclamation transformed the lava landscape into cultivable ground. One flow beside the vineyards is associated with the eruption of 1556. Because flows differ by age and by the area affected by each eruption, their microbiological, microchemical and mineral composition also differs. The same variety can therefore behave and express itself differently from one contrada to another.
The estate’s soils are andisols developed over basaltic rock, with silicon concentrations above 60%. They are acidic, rich in organic matter and exceptionally porous. Deep sandy and sandy-loam profiles allow roots to penetrate several metres, increasing access to the soils’ mineral resources. The basaltic substrate stores and gradually supplies water—the estate’s so-called sponge effect—while its thermal inertia contributes to the large difference between daytime and night-time temperatures.
Iron, silica, aluminium, manganese and magnesium are identified among the principal elements of these geologically young soils. Phosphorus, magnesium and potassium are also recorded in the sandy-loam sectors. Phosphorus is associated with increased sugar concentration in the must; manganese supports the vines’ winter defences; and iron influences the pigmentation of foliage, particularly in red varieties. Dark volcanic soils absorb heat during the day and release it rapidly after sunset.
Climate
High elevation lowers temperatures and delays the vegetative cycle, allowing slower ripening. At the same time, the estate receives more solar radiation than many other high-altitude European vineyard areas. Strong day–night temperature variation supports the accumulation of polyphenols and aromatic compounds. In individual northern contrade, growing-season fluctuations may reach 18–20°C.
Summer rainfall is generally scarce relative to other parts of Sicily, but early-morning dew generated by the mountain provides compensating humidity. Basaltic subsoils maintain a reserve of water, and the cooler nights reduce disease pressure. Contrada Zottorinotto combines low growing-season rainfall with strong ventilation, while Contrada Marchesa and Verzella experience generally cold winters and pronounced day–night variation.
Winemaking
Organic and low-input management
All grapes grown on Firriato’s estates are managed under certified-organic rules. Organic conversion was completed in 2012 with BioAgriCert conformity to EC Regulation 834/2007. The current Bioagricert operator certificate complies with EU Regulation 2018/848 and is valid from 10 November 2025 through 10 November 2028. Vineyard management excludes synthetic plant-protection products and synthetic fertilisers and is based on preventive, natural cultivation methods.
Cavanera is dry-farmed. The basaltic substrate’s water-storage capacity and early-morning dew contribute to the vines’ water supply. Natural and spontaneous vegetation is retained between the rows to reduce erosion and moderate vine vigour. Soil movement is kept to a minimum. Green cover, green manure, mulching and the reuse of pruning wood form part of the wider self-sustaining production cycle.
Manual work and precision monitoring
A dedicated team of growers performs the vineyard work manually from pruning through harvest. The oldest vines receive individual attention: their yields, annual behaviour and vegetative cycles are recorded, and some plants are known by individual names. The aim is to preserve healthy, intact fruit until it reaches the nearby winery.
The vineyards are managed through precision viticulture. Climatic conditions and vine responses are recorded by estate, vineyard and individual plot to forecast maturation and harvest dates. Approximately 90 days may pass from fruit set and veraison through full maturity. Monitoring intensifies as harvest approaches and combines berry tasting in the vineyard with laboratory analysis.
Canopy and yield strategies
Canopy management varies with the production objective and parcel. In the Nerello Mascalese vineyards used for rosé and sparkling production, shoot trimming or a larger retained leaf surface encourages secondary growth and shades the bunches. This slows maturation, protects fruit from direct sunlight, helps retain malic acidity, maintains the acid-to-sugar balance and supports aromatic-precursor accumulation. Earlier harvesting is then possible for sparkling-wine fruit.
In Contrada Marchesa, early leaf removal during ripening is intended to produce smaller berries with thicker, bloom-covered skins. In the Verzella white vineyard, leaf and bunch-cover management is adjusted to slow ripening and concentrate aromatic precursors. The contrada vineyards favour low yields, small single-vineyard parcels and alberello Etneo training.
Old-vine conservation
The pre-phylloxera parcel is maintained on its own roots. Where an ancient vine is lost, replacement material is derived from the old population. Traditional propagation by layering creates a new plant genetically continuous with the parent, conserving both the Nerello Mascalese material and the parcel’s relic varieties.
Harvest
Etna is the last of Firriato’s territories to be harvested. Picking may begin in the second week of September with Nerello destined for sparkling production. The principal harvest is concentrated in the first and second ten-day periods of October and can continue into early November. All fruit is hand-picked; the contrada vineyards use small boxes to protect bunch integrity. Grapes travel directly to the estate winery for immediate processing.
The Verzella winery
Cavanera has a self-contained production centre in Contrada Verzella. The restored winery stands among the vineyards beside the old manor house and palmento. The historic structure preserves a wooden press, vats carved into rock and drainage channels formed from terracotta and basalt, while modern processing equipment operates alongside it.
Harvested fruit is taken directly from the vineyard to the estate winery. White grapes are pressed and red grapes are destemmed and crushed with modern equipment designed to retain the characteristics of freshly picked fruit. Vinification begins immediately to limit the loss of aroma and preserve grape integrity.
The production centre handles vinification, maturation, bottling and storage for the contrada wines. Zoning, selection of vines and bunches, and small-lot vinifications are used to study and retain the distinctions among the estate’s volcanic districts. A temperature- and humidity-controlled maturation room contains French-oak vessels for red wines.
A dedicated area is equipped for metodo classico production. Whole-bunch soft pressing, temperature-controlled primary fermentation and secondary fermentation in bottle are among the documented sparkling-wine operations. Bottles mature on their lees in a dark cellar maintained at approximately 11–12°C; part of the traditional-method production is aged in a tunnel formed by a dried lava flow.
The production system is traceable from grape reception through processing, bottling and labelling. The current UNI EN ISO 22005:2008 certification covers grape and wine reception, vinification, processing and bottling, with records for grapes, musts, wines, additives, processing aids and packaging. Environmental controls include water-footprint assessment, energy-management measures, greenhouse-gas monitoring and the recycling of glass, paper, packaging and capsules.
Philosophy
Cavanera is conceived as a mountain-viticulture project rooted in the identity of individual volcanic districts. The Di Gaetano family’s objective is to interpret Etna through its native varieties, differentiated lava flows, high-altitude climate and historical cultivation systems rather than treating the northern slope as a uniform growing area.
The project combines three complementary priorities: recovery of the pre-phylloxera vineyard and its germplasm, detailed zoning of the contrade through selection and microvinification, and the development of traditional-method sparkling wines at altitude. Old techniques such as alberello Etneo training and propagation by layering coexist with laboratory maturity analysis, traceability, modern processing and environmental certification.
The broader production philosophy gives the vineyard primacy. Grapes should reach the cellar healthy, intact and at the appropriate physiological and organoleptic maturity. Intervention in the soil is limited; fieldwork is manual; canopy and yield decisions are tailored to the parcel and intended wine style. Vintage and plot records are used to refine decisions rather than erase seasonal or site differences.
Environmental protection is treated as part of territorial identity. Organic cultivation, dry farming, permanent vegetation, biodiversity conservation, renewable-energy use, greenhouse-gas measurement, water-footprint assessment, material recycling and the sensitive restoration of rural architecture are integrated into the estate’s operational model.